"Up until sometime in the 1800s, though, lobster was literally low-class food, eaten only by the poor and institutionalized. Even in the harsh penal environment of early America, some colonies had laws against feeding lobsters to inmates more than once a week because it was thought to be cruel and unusual, like making people eat rats. "
Then it's because railway passengers where given lobster.
As for if it really changed, I can't imagine it change so much into the steam style lobster of today (unless you're from Louisiana canjun/creole style).