I'm glad that film/print has seen a resurgence in recent years. For a while it was hard (expensive) to get decent supplies. This is a nice ad-hoc setup. Darkroom equipment is definitely like a gas; I think my enlarger timer was around $100 alone.
I have a full darkroom packed away, but just don't have the time/space for it. I miss it. There's something very special about seeing images appear.
I find some darkroom edit methods like burning/dodging more time efficient vs software like Lightroom (much faster to 'mask' with your hand in many cases). But dealing with spot removal -- no contest I'd rather just do that digitally. I don't miss trying to paint chemicals on a negative :)
If getting started, I suggest a class or some good end to end books. Knowing the basic principles is quite helpful (digital or not). You'll also learn a lot about the decisions (+debugging) that ensue. Example -- RC vs fiber paper, properly winding your film onto the dev reel (done by touch), over/under agitating, weak/old chemicals, under fixing, washing, etc.
The more right you get it in camera, the easier time you will have in the darkroom. On average, large sensor digital cameras can be more forgiving than film. That said, there are tricks to fix your mistakes or work around limitations (e.g. pushing/pulling film, printing contrast filters, dodging/burning, exposing multiple frames onto single print, etc.).
If you don't print a lot, a vacuum or accordion container will help preserve your chemicals' life span. Your paper usually likes a cool/steady temp; too hot and it can get fogged. Check your city/county on how to properly dispose of the spent chemicals; usually they don't want spent developer or fixer down the drain.
I have a full darkroom packed away, but just don't have the time/space for it. I miss it. There's something very special about seeing images appear.
I find some darkroom edit methods like burning/dodging more time efficient vs software like Lightroom (much faster to 'mask' with your hand in many cases). But dealing with spot removal -- no contest I'd rather just do that digitally. I don't miss trying to paint chemicals on a negative :)
If getting started, I suggest a class or some good end to end books. Knowing the basic principles is quite helpful (digital or not). You'll also learn a lot about the decisions (+debugging) that ensue. Example -- RC vs fiber paper, properly winding your film onto the dev reel (done by touch), over/under agitating, weak/old chemicals, under fixing, washing, etc.
The more right you get it in camera, the easier time you will have in the darkroom. On average, large sensor digital cameras can be more forgiving than film. That said, there are tricks to fix your mistakes or work around limitations (e.g. pushing/pulling film, printing contrast filters, dodging/burning, exposing multiple frames onto single print, etc.).
If you don't print a lot, a vacuum or accordion container will help preserve your chemicals' life span. Your paper usually likes a cool/steady temp; too hot and it can get fogged. Check your city/county on how to properly dispose of the spent chemicals; usually they don't want spent developer or fixer down the drain.